Climbing Gear

January 2, 2016 By Nick Giustina

GRIPPED UP with Grip Pro

When COG’s most elderly correspondent reported being “gripped up,” we thought he was talking about short 5.10s he barely exited in style 40 years ago.

(For the record. Smith Rock’s Karate Crack, 60’, 5.10a and North Wales’ Cenotaph Corner, 120’, 5.10a…both routes feature tidy hand jams to the very top. Here climbers have just enough hand-strength to pass the tricky crux right: either into a pod or out of one. Film reference: 2001 Space Odyssey, “Open the pod-bay door, Hal…”)

But no. This wasn’t nostalgia for the classic UK test-piece, Cenotaph Corner. Our pal’s orthopedist had diagnosed “trigger finger,” an arthritic condition rendering a finger-joint “permanently” fixed with a right angle bend.

Our guy rejected arthritis.

“I cooked those two knuckles lighting a gas-fired broiler on St. Martin,” averred our crook-fingered friend. He palmed a rubber-ring hand-exerciser at COG headquarters

Flexing the rubber-ring, we could clearly hear his middle-finger knuckle “lock,” slip and slide through its regular range-of-motion: no smooth movement here, just three-distinct, painful indents.

“Each morning, I can’t open this finger; it’s so locked-up. I have to pull it straight and flatten it down [with my chest in bed] for a few minutes before I get up. Otherwise, it stays crooked.”

But a few minutes with COG’s Grip Pro Trainer (we’d bought one at an industry event years ago) revealed that our elderly correspondent had lost grip-strength in his damaged fingers. A right-hander, his left-hand now over-powered his dominant hand. A lot. A rock-climbing gym regular, our guy was appalled.

So we loaned the old fellow our Grip Pro Trainer rubber-ring. Within days (using the rubber-ring for two sets of twenty-reps/day), he reported that his fingers remained flexible throughout the night. Two weeks later, our friend’s grip-strength was normal. While joint movement wasn’t silky smooth, our correspondent felt comfortable ignoring medical advice to visit a hand surgeon.

So, COG discovered a medical/orthopedic/age problem and an exercise solution. No surprise here. End of story, right?

Well, as usual with the COG team: not so fast.

You see, the Grip Pro Trainer is manufactured of black rubber. Our friend carried the Grip Pro to his car for exercising (more than patience) while stalled in rush hour traffic. Enter girlfriend. Late night dinner, maybe some dancing. Shuffling around the front seat. Dark. Grip Pro pushed to the car-floor. Hasty exit. Next morning, where’s the Grip Pro Trainer?

Missing daily grip-strength sessions means our guy’s fingers immediately “gripped up.” So, he urgently hustles over to his neighborhood REI, 10am Saturday morning. $7.95 being much cheaper than surgery…but what? No Pro Grip Trainer?

Black Diamond forearm trainer — Black Diamond Forearm Trainer

OK. Black Diamond’s Forearm Trainer looks about the same: a squeezable rubber-ring (www.blackdiamondequipment.com), $6.95, in blue. Available everywhere online, including BD. But not stocked at REI?

What if you need a grip strengthener immediately?

Is there anything on REI’s shelf?

GripMaster grip trainer — GRIPMaster Hand Strengthener

The Gripmaster Hand Strengthener, $14.95 comes to hand. Cumbersome name for a complicated-looking, spring-loaded device. Gripped at a “high” angle across the knuckles, the Gripmaster focuses isolated loading of each finger: nice for finger control. But our guy needs a more powerful, rolling action for his whole hand, fingers and forearm in order to arrest arthritic degeneration. BD’s and the Pro Grip’s rubber-rings are perfect, but where to find one, today? Not at Dick’s, not at Sports Authority, not REI, nor our local fitness equipment retailer.

Back at COG headquarters, we hand over a freebie Boreal (climbing shoe maker) had given us many seasons ago.

Now, we happen to like Boreal shoes. However, Boreal’s FS Quattro (at several years’ remove) generated negative reviews on climbing blogs. The promotional grip trainer, branded with the FS Quarttro label, worked about as well as many thought the rubber works.

[COG’s friction-shoe tests favor these resoles: 5.10’s Stealth and Vibram’s newest, XS Grip2.]

GripSaver Pro — GripSaver Plus by Metolius

So our trigger-finger guy bought a Metolius’ Grip Saver Plus, $17.95. The Metolius take on grip-training is injury prevention, an exotic concept for many. The red, palm-sized squeeze-ball is perfect for easy grappling. But the real rave’s for the ball’s finger-extension feature: nothing’s better for warming-up finger-tendon sheaths. And as everyone knows, dynamically balanced, incremental-load training is essential for avoiding repetitive motion and overuse injuries.

For the next three days, our griped-up cousin maintained his hand exercise/recovery regimen using his Metolius Grip Saver Plus (also available at REI stores), while awaiting delivery of his online orders. He judged the Melolius squeeze-extension ball a perfect pre-exercise/climb warm-up routine.

Meanwhile, COG made phone calls. We ordered another Grip Pro Trainer and chatted with Grip Pro’s Erich Esswein. Asked why we couldn’t find his product at REI, Dick’s or even our local fitness equipment retailer (dealing the premium Lifefitness Brand, among others), Esswein replied that “…big-box retailers, and even REI, have squeezed out small manufacturers…” with economies of scale. Better for the retailers, not so good for hand exercisers ready to hand.

Here’s our final tally for Black Diamond’s Forearm Trainer ring and Grip Pro’s ring: Dead-heat for quality resistance and hand-finger position variety. Order online; order early.

The Black Diamond’s Forearm Trainer offers a single resistance increment: 35 lbs.

Grip Pro’s 3-ring set delivers three resistance increments: green, 30 lbs; black, 40 lbs; red, 50 lbs.

To which our broken-down rock-jock says: “I could stay at 35-pounds (resistance), but I may as well get stronger while I’m at it (using a 3-ring set).”

Grip Pro wins on versatility and progressive strength training.

In the spirit of gender neutrality, we’ll mention: the 30 lbs, green Grip Pro ring is perfect for small, fair hands.

Black Diamond’s Forearm Trainer, COG 5-star rating, $7.95 each/$19.95 3-pack
Black Diamond’s Forearm Trainer, rings, $6.95
Gripmaster Hand Strengthener (springs) $14.95
Metolius Grip Saver Plus (squeeze ball + extension) (most innovative), $17.95

May 30, 2013 By Chas Bruce

Bison Compass Button Buckle Paracord Bracelet

Bison has been making a great variety of paracord bracelets the past few seasons. Now, cleverly they have replaced the conventional buckle or button with a compass button. Makes a perfect survival pair: 8-10 feet of paracord for all around use and a compass to find your way home.

I have knotted a few cobra-type bracelets. It’s not that hard, and can be completed in few minutes, once you get the hang of it. The undoing takes a few more minutes, and your cord will have a few twists to it. I don’t need to tear this one apart. But I do enjoy wearing it for the compass.

Comes in several sizes. Makes sure you get one that is comfortable on your wrist. Uses 550 paracord in a Cobra braid and comes in Black, Olive or Tan.

$10

May 28, 2013 By Chas Bruce

Chums Teton Paracord Survival Bracelet

Paracord / Survival bracelets have become quite the outdoor fashion accessory. The usual cobra-style braids can keep 8-10 feet of paracord easily at hand for any emergency/ad hoc use. But the big daddy of them all is the Teton paracord bracelet, made with a unique, flexible braid holding more than 20 feet of high-strength paracord. Trust me. That’s a lot of cordage.

It feels heavy on the wrist. And it is a little bulky and twice the width and thickness of most paracord bracelets, but it makes quite a fashion statement. This bracelet is made of 550 parachute cord with 12 core strand in solid, camo and 2-color braids. A heavy duty side-release buckle holds it all together securely.

I understand they are USA made in Southern Utah. Check the Chums website for their other braided paracord bracelets, keychains and accessories.

$16

April 4, 2013 By Nick Giustina

Arc’teryx Haku Rope Bag

Haku is a Hawaiian word meaning “to braid” and I like the meaning of this word, for rope management, as opposed to my words, which are “goddamn snakes nest”.

The new Haku rope bag, from Arc’teryx, services rope management in a simple, functional, and elegant way. It is, essentially, a tarp and a bag in one, and it rolls into a compact and clean shoulder carrier, when you’re ready to pack up for the day, or move to a new wall or crag. The funnel loading system makes it easy to pack the rope into the main compartment, which fits a standard 60 m rope. The RollTop closure and compression straps are nice additions by those crafty Cunacks from Arc’teryx.

$69

March 21, 2013 By Chas Bruce

Korkers StormJack Boot w/ OmniTrack Sole System

Korkers designed the OmniTrax Sole System to allow you to change the soles of your boots to provide traction in a variety of conditions.

The StormJack is a cold weather hiker that comes with two soles: a rubber lug and a studded rubber lug with carbide studs. 100% waterproof construction includes waterproof/breathable bootie, and waterproof leathers, webbing and stitching to keep boot interior perfectly dry, and includes Thinsulate insulation in toe and tongue.

Molded heel cap provides support and protection without sacrificing flexibility. Approximately 2lbs 10oz./pair. Ten different soles are offered in the OmniTrax System, from felt to carbide studs. Many of these are wading specific and go with Korkers Fishing series of boots and waders. Check out the entire line at korkers.com.

$140

August 17, 2012 By Nick Giustina

CAMP Tricam Evo

Remember how SLCs (Spring Loaded Cams) made those downward-opening crack placements tolerable: the cam just hanging in space with “nothing” below it?

Well, your COG guys still have that feeling when placing “pro” in outward-opening, vertical cracks. Sure we could carry offset cams, but who needs a heavier rack? Better to go whine-less and pretend one side (or another) of the SLC will hold the load.

Since the early ‘80s, climbers have relied on Tricams for mechanical camming action for offset, non-parallel, flaring crack protection. The three points of cam contact effectively neutralize many odd crack configurations. Flip the cam over and the rig works passively as a regular nut. Sure, climbers must set Tricams “hard” since three non-spring-loaded camming points want to move around (unloaded) more than four-lobed SLCs, but Tricams’re lightweight, doubly clever and basically unchanged for over 30 years.

CAMP’s new update of the Tricam is even more clever: we’re positive that Greg Lowe must have thought of this during his ‘70s development…but somehow the refinement got lost during production. For 2013, CAMP’s narrowed the base of the cam: turning the basic rectangle into a wedge-shaped “stopper.” Used passively, the Tricam Evo now wedges securely into a narrowing crack, while functioning as usual in camming mode.

But that’s not all. CAMP has substantially stiffened the new Tricam Evo’s attached runner, effectively extending the climber’s overhead “reach” by at least six inches. Greater range, no extra weight: what could be cleverer? The stiffened runner makes a quickdraw even more essential to isolate the Tricam Evo from rope-running oscillations, but that’s axiomatic anyway.

July 26, 2012 By Nick Giustina

Black Diamond Magnetron Carabiners

The Magnetron GridLock and RockLock carabiners: Black Diamond’s newest, terrific gear innovation buzzes even non-climbers. Basic amateur youtube videos were up immediately during Summer 2011 Outdoor Retailer Trade Show. The videos show the carabiner’s basic function, but not the salient points.

Here’s how Black Diamond’s website introduces their carabiner innovation, “Throughout the decades, we’ve been at the forefront of revolutionary carabiner design here at Black Diamond Equipment—from Yvon Chouinard’s original ovals; to the climbing world’s first-ever wiregate, the HotWire; to the crossload-eliminating belay carabiner, the GridLock. Never satisfied with the status quo, we’re always striving to develop the next great carabiner design innovation, which has led us to our latest game-changing advancement: Magnetron Technology™.

What’s so special about Magnetron Technology? One word: magnets. Yes, that’s right—locking carabiners that utilize magnets and not twistlocks or screwlocks on the gates. Available on select locking carabiners in July 2012, our patent-pending Magnetron Technology is so revolutionary we decided to share a sneak preview with you now to get you stoked. Here are the basics: using the power of magnetic fields to reinvent the locking carabiner, the Magnetron GridLock and the Magnetron RockLock locking carabiners combine maximum security and ease of use like never before.

The Black Diamond video’s a bit better demo-ing the Magnetron. But, still, questions.

Questions we heard at OR’s late July hands-on echoed those of BD’s on-line forum:

Will the magnets attract/be activated by other nearby ferrous metal objects like ice axes, nut wires, safety pins?
Wouldn’t a spring-loaded slider be simpler, more dependable and cheaper?

At $25.95+ at retail, every carabiner conceivable is cheaper than the new Magnatron. Otherwise, no.

The magnets BD employs don’t project a magnetic field beyond the immediate width of the ‘biner gate end. And no, you don’t have to worry about the magnetics sweeping up spare bobby-pins or metal filings: the force field only reacts when the gate’s held open. When closed, the magnets are locked solid and “covered” by the metal embedded in the carabiner’s nose. Unless you open the gate on a pile of metal shavings, magnet contamination isn’t an issue. And in any event, by the time the device arrives at outdoor stores summer 2012, I’d bet the BD engineers have even this far-fetched contamination scenario mastered.

Now the spring-loaded question’s the heart of BD’s material innovation. The old screw gates, as we all know, take a moment to, well, screw. If the threaded surfaces are aligned, “lubed,” clean and dry, climbers can do this automatically, smoothly with one digit, with practice. Sometimes you have to look at the gate; sometimes “work” the screw at bit. Spring-loaded twist-locks have similar encumbrances. And twist-lock springs are at their “strongest” when the gates’re open. When twist-locks are closed, the springs are at their weakest compression.

With the new BD Magnatron, a smooth “pinch” with two fingers and the lock opens. The move’s smooth because the gate’s ergonomically friendlier than any other locking design, while also rivaling any non-locking ‘biner gate. The lock stays open by magnetic repulsion, no springs. After opening, the gate can be held open with one finger. When released, the gate closes (powered by a conventional spring at the gate’s pivot point) and locks by magnetic attraction at its highest degree. The actual locking mechanism’s subtle. But we couldn’t see any contingency by which the lock might be accidentally disengaged. While the locked “look” is not as burly as sleeve or screw locks, the Magnatron could replace all ‘biners on your rack without looking weird. And, did I mention, they lock? According to BD test data, the magnetic lock’s at least as strong as any screw or sleeve gate. So no worry here; as with any locking ‘biner, test failure will never occur at the lock.

But what’s even safer about the Magnatron is what we like most: it’s so simple and perfectly intuitive to handle. Grab it like an ordinary carabiner. Touch the opposite side of the gate with a simple “pinching” gesture and swing the gate open with one finger. Just like a non-locking ‘biner. No looking, no learning curve, no delay. Release the gate and, as usual, the gate closes…now securely locked by magnetic force. Quicker, smoother, simpler, lighter, intuitive. This unit’s got to be one of BD’s biggest hits yet.

Now about the name? Maybe a “Transformers” suggestion is apt.

July 26, 2012 By Nick Giustina

Metolius Locking Speed Buckle

Now you’d be hard pressed to call the Climbing Zone attitude free, so a little sincerity goes a long way. But the folks at Metolius are so disarmingly modest, we’re sometimes in danger of missing their newest gear. In any event, you have to look closely to see their latest design innovation: Metolius’ new climbing harness buckle. It’s bigger than two stacked quarters, but just barely.

This’s where the copywriter inserts the product name. But when I asked about this during the product demo, the fellow designers (Doug Phillips and Jim Karns) extemporized: So we capitalize the buckle’s narrative function: Metolius’ Quick Release Buckle. Don’t be surprised if Metolius makes up their own name for this buckle by the time it’s delivered.

Here’s what the Metolius website says: (Nothing yet: the buckle’s too new.)
This buckle’s a bit bigger deal than that. We’ve handled nearly every harness and buckle since we last tied-on with a bowline-on-a-coil looped around a somewhat slimmer waist. Fall on the bowline a couple times and you’re using a knife to open the rig. What could be safer? Well, any modern harness, properly maintained and secured, is probably safer than the anachronistic bowline-on-coil. But after proper maintenance/retirement dialectic, securing a new harness can be an existential problem. Notice the last thing new climbers are taught to do before exchanging climbing signals? “Check your partners’ harness.”

A recent online forum discussion recalls an early scene of the “Cliffhanger” movie. You know the one where the girlfriend’s harness buckle opens and she falls just out of Sly’s reach? The movie falls even further. But the recent online forum describes a real-life harness buckle, though properly fastened, loosening, then opening under load. The harness leg loops stayed in place and the fall was arrested. But still, with the newer buckle systems that don’t loop-double back through the buckle, potential “issues” exist, from what we’ve read.

For opening most (“quick release”) harness buckles, we lever-up the top buckle-fitting to release the webbing threaded though the buckle fittings. Simple. When loosened, we just push the buckle down the webbing to open the harness. The pressure/friction of the tightened buckle against the webbing keeps the buckle closed. Loosen the buckle a bit and the webbing’s got a chance to run free.

The new wrinkle? Metolius’ buckle will ONLY slide open if we definitely hold apart the two buckle fittings with two fingers, then slide the buckle loose. Sounds minor until you consider the alternative. The new Metolius buckle’s a huge improvement, yet barely bigger than two stacked quarters. And it’s subtle.

Look closely at the photo. See how the top-fitting sits flat, down, exactly matching the corresponding “slot” of the lower-fitting? Kinda like sliding a coin to just fit inside a beer-bottle cap. Open these fittings and loosen the webbing a bit, then try to slide the harness open. The two fittings slam shut as soon as the webbing moves. I must hold the fittings slightly apart for the webbing to move through the closure fittings. Let go of the two fittings and the buckle slams shut again, locking the harness tight. Hold the fittings a slightly apart and the buckle runs open over the webbing quickly as you want. Start to let the buckles drift together and the buckle grabs tight…you get the idea: the free “release and run” and “locked tight” continuum favors buckle closure, unless you’re definite about wanting the harness open.

All the convenience of a quick release harness buckle, with safety perfectly balanced against the climber’s intention. You want the harness open: it’s easy and quick opening if you manipulate the fittings with two fingers. Do nothing and the thing’s locked tight, no matter what.

Engineering, trial-and-error, patented. Simple and safest harness closure we’ve seen since we tied our last ring-bend knot on a surplus, 1-inch tubular swami.

$90 – $105

July 26, 2012 By Nick Giustina

Metolius PAS Running Anchor System

Checked out Metolius’ adaptation of their PAS 22 Personal Anchor System: the PAS Running Anchor System.

Here’s what the Metolius website says about their original PAS system:

Completely redesigned PAS with 11 mm (0.43″) webbing that now passes the CE/UIAA Sling Standard
More versatile – can be used for equalizing anchors
Same weight despite higher strength
Safer than daisy chains (Daisy chains are designed for body weight applications only)
Safer, more convenient and more adjustable than using slings or quickdraws at the anchor
Stows compactly

You know this PAS unit Metolius has offered for some time? We’ve used other units as strong but we really like the fool-proof look of the individual sewn-loops and they do rack unobtrusively.

Now Metolius has made a new PAS-like unit with smaller loops and both ends finished for ‘biners: designed for equalizing two gear placements or top-tope anchors. Clip each end (of the new PAS Running Anchor System: again, we’re making this up because our copy’s running ahead of Metolius’ naming the design) into a placement, and then select whichever loop between (the placements) matches your directional loading. Simple, fast, bombproof. And you’ve still got your PAS “daisy” chain attached to your harness, and all those “extra” loops. Maybe it’s just us but “extra” loops has always been an oxymoron for us in practice.

$30

July 12, 2012 By Chas Bruce

StikStool Hiking Stool / Hiking Stick

The Stikstool easily converts from you hiking stick to a tripod stool. The extra parts you carry in your pack weighs less than 5 ounces, far less than any other hiking stool.

Most people use a hiking stick while backpacking, so why not have your
camp stool meet you at the campsite without having to carry it
on your back? Converting the Stikstool from a hiking stick to a
backpacking stool is simple, fast and requires no tools.

$32

GRIPPED UP with Grip Pro

Bison Compass Button Buckle Paracord Bracelet

Chums Teton Paracord Survival Bracelet

Arc’teryx Haku Rope Bag

Korkers StormJack Boot w/ OmniTrack Sole System

CAMP Tricam Evo

Black Diamond Magnetron Carabiners

Metolius Locking Speed Buckle

Metolius PAS Running Anchor System

StikStool Hiking Stool / Hiking Stick

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