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Clothing

December 9, 2015 By Nick Giustina

Treading Lightly: Vibram Comes Up Five-Fingers Short

Vibram Five Fingers shoes
Vibram Five Fingers

Re: COG’s extensive discussion of minimalist footwear: Holy Caballo Blanco! October 15, 2012.

The Huffington Post reports, May 12, 2014:

If you were one of the 70 million Americans who purchased a pair of those weird-looking “barefoot running” shoes, you may be entitled to some cash. Vibram, the company behind FiveFingers shoes, just settled a $3.75 million class action lawsuit over false claims that its running shoe yields health benefits, Runner’s World reports.

Our COG team member’s first response: “No one shoe or type of shoe can do it all for everyone. I still think there is some merit for the design–for some people. There’re lots of happy barefoot runners out there.”

Our COG team’s second response: “We like the Vibram folks. We cherish our few moments with the late Caballo Blanco [hero of Christopher McDougall’s inspirational Born to Run, the bible of “natural running” advocates] and we still think, “Light is right.”

However, continues Huffington’s report:

The thin-soled, flexible shoes, which cost about $100 a pair, are said to mimic the experience of running in bare feet, and thus “improve foot health” — an unsupported claim the company falsely advertised.

The lawsuit was first filed by Valerie Bezdek in March 2012. According to court filings, Bezdek claimed that Vibram deployed deceptive marketing and falsely advertised the following benefits from wearing its shoe, without basing its claims on any scientific research:

1) Strengthen muscles in the feet and lower legs

2) Improve range of motion in the ankles, feet, and toes

3) Stimulate neural function important to balance and agility

4) Eliminate heel lift to align the spine and improve posture

5) Allow the foot and body to move naturally.

But experts say barefoot running — an experience the shoes are said to mimic — may actually have a negative impact on foot health.

Language geeks will note: a couple, simple modifiers inserted within Vibram’s advertising copy would have saved the manufacturer nearly four million dollars and lots of bad press. Absent scientific research, copywriters might consider using the subjunctive mood in crafting verb-parts of written assertions. [Verb “helpers” like might and may signal the subjunctive mood…and give lawyers a foothold in fending-off class action lawsuits.]

So far as COG’s foot health is concerned, COG’s had no problems over the last two years. But our testers mostly use minimalist Vibram footwear (two testers, four-pair of Merrells, over two years) for travel and long, town-walking excursions. COG hasn’t run distances in these shoes. But, over eight, 5K road races during this period, COG has run among many elite racers using minimalist footwear. Our non-scientific, anecdotal observation: more than a few elite road-racers seem to do just fine with the thin-soled, Vibram running shoes. Many of these are devotees.

NEVERTHELESS: COG thinks the court’s word of warning is appropriate. Inspirational stories and “back to nature” affections must be subordinate to scientific scrutiny. COG carefully analyzes our own personal biomechanics before putting our thoughts into action. All consumers should apply (critical) skepticism to (advertising) words, as well.

Huffington concludes:

Class action members who purchased a pair of FiveFingers shoes after March 2009 can submit valid claim forms to receive a partial refund of up to $94 per pair, although Runner’s World says the likely payout per person will be between $20 and $50, based on similar settlements in the past.

COG still thinks, “Light is right…” But, should we take the money anyway?

Filed Under: Clothing Tagged With: running shoes, Vibram

January 27, 2014 By Nick Giustina

Columbia Omni Freeze Zero

Hikers crossing a creek
Omni Freeze is the newest fabric from Columbia Sportswear

We never talk about our senior COG reporter’s outdoor-sports modeling career. But that’s when we saw our first Gore-Tex jacket: he sported a bright yellow number in an early Early Winters catalog. So we’ve caught him out: style over substance. But what about this early, smart outdoor fabric, Gore-Tex?

At summer (2012) OR COG found Columbia Sportswear techs touting their new Omni Freeze ZERO fabric and sounding like Gore decades ago.

Then (1976), all Gore would say is: micro-pores allow water vapor (perspiration) to pass out of the garment while keeping (liquid) rain outside: a waterproof, breathe-able fabric. Or, WPB: Dry, inside jacket; wet, outside jacket.

Now, apparently, everybody smoking ganja at Coachella knows Gore’s “secret.”

Red Rain Coat from Columbia
Red raincoat from Columbia

According to InsideOutdoor Magazine, Fall 2012, “ePTFE 2.0, WPB laminates article by Ernest Shiwanov,

Thirty-six years ago (1976), the outdoor recreation market was introduced to what would be the greatest improvement in textile technology since the invention of nylon. Early adapters such as Early Winters, Marmot Mountain Works and Banana Equipment saw the answers to their performance textile dreams and just like that, this technology spread faster than free chronic at the Coachella Music Festival…

…First introduced by W.L Gore and Associates, PTFE-based textile laminates have gone through various changes, improvements…General Electric’s eVent is one…textile laminate technology is based on Dupont’s Teflon or polytetrafluoroethylene (ePTFE or PTFE)…

(Besides Gore-Tex and eVent, Ultrex, Entrant and Permatex supply smart, WPB fabrics for today’s outdoor market. If you own a WPB jacket, you’re probably wearing one of these fabrics.)

But in 1976, no one would explain the “smart fabric” technology. The closely guarded secret was Teflon. You know, like no-stick frying pans. But no one was saying so, then.

Columbia Sportswear Omnifreeze Truck
Columbia Sportswear truck advertising Omni Freeze Zero

And now, last August at Outdoor Retailer, we got the same message from Columbia Sportswear. About their new smart fabric:  Omni Freeze ZERO. COG thought this fabric innovation worth a look because Columbia’s a major, mid-price-point brand available world-wide at specialty outdoor, department and big-box stores.

(Columbia’s Mountain Hardware specialty-brand offers premium product through more exclusive channels. This year your COG reporters have eyeballed Columbia/Mountain Hardware label in outdoor shops: Sydney, Melbourne, Paris, Chamonix, Zermatt and Grindelwald…the world beyond REI and EMS.)

So this time your COG reporters determined to question closely Columbia’s Dr. Science guys doing the fabric demos. No more secrets.

Columbia Omnifreeze fabric on an arm
Sleeve of Omni Freeze fabric

Here’s what we saw. Columbia reps met retailers, vendors and media at the entrance to SLC’s Salt Palace Convention Center. August in Salt Lake City, the mid-morning air temperature ranges 90++ degrees. A Columbia-branded, white, 9-inch lycra sleeve was offered each attendee. In direct sunlight, forearms heated up immediately under the lycra sleeve. Then the Columbia reps (err, the “reps” are actually professional fitness-models…but who’s looking?) spray-bottled the armbands with warm water. The fabric immediately cooled…and cooled far faster and far colder than the ordinary evaporative-cooling we’d all expect.

Here’s what we heard: “once the fabric gets wet, it cools and stays cool regardless of evaporation, so long as it stays wet.”

Now we can’t emphasize this enough. As you know, evaporative cooling depends on moisture evaporating, giving up energy (heat), as the water turns to vapor. (Remember our high school physics: the pan of water takes heat from the stovetop before it can boil away into vapor?) Well, Columbia’s Omni Freeze ZERO works similarly, but way faster. We felt refrigerated under the wet Omni Freeze ZERO sleeve. Really, really cool under high-summer Salt Lake City sun.

Fitness-model spritzing finished, COG beelines over to the Columbia booth and find the white-coated lab guys. We ask about the little blue circles printed over the fabric surface? We mistook these tiny blue circles for fabric decoration. The scientists corrected us: the blue circles are Columbia’s proprietary polymers. When wet, the polymers microscopically swell and release heat. This makes the fabric feel very cool, almost cold against our skin.

Fabric closeup from Columbia Omnifreeze
Closeup of Omni Freeze fabric

“How does the heat get into the polymer reaction to start with?” we ask, like we had a clue.

“An endothermic catalyst absorbs the heat,” observed the Columbia lab guys; “Evaporation plays a small part, but that’s not the main driver.”

Nice scientific answer, but we didn’t want answers. Your GOG reporters wanted the truth.

Evidently, we couldn’t handle the truth.

Columbia refused to name the (proprietary) polymer or explain further the physics/chemistry of their polymer that absorbs heat until it’s wet (like when you’re sweating) and then cools even faster than normal evaporation would allow. So as long as the fabric’s dry, it’ll help keep you warm. But when you sweat-it-up or otherwise wet the fabric, it’ll get cold fast. Our COG Omni Freeze lycra sleeves stayed very cool throughout the afternoon, so long as we sloshed them every so often with our water bottles.

We’d hope we don’t have to wait 30 years (like we waited on Gore-Tex for the tech low-down) for Columbia’s secret fabric physics to be revealed. But we do like the idea of free chronic at Coachella.

Filed Under: Clothing Tagged With: Columbia Sportswear, fabric

January 17, 2014 By Chas Bruce

Keen McKenzie Water Shoe

Keen McKenzie Water Shoe
Keen McKenzie Water Shoe

Part two of the Colorado Daily saga: Footwear. I really wanted sandals but my snow-white feet said no. I needed the protection of a river shoe. And it was a bonus mid-trip when we stopped near Salt Creek to hike around some ruins.

The McKenzie is a capable hiking shoe with excellent traction, and it’s incredibly comfortable as well. Especially in the hot weather in a sockless mode. River water drains quickly–only a touch of silt left behind. Keen claims the McKenzie is more sandal than shoe.

Keen McKenzie Water Shoe
Keen McKenzie Water Shoe

Or maybe just a sandal with a bit of mesh to keep the debris out. You get the best of both worlds with ultra light, debris-stopping mesh and comfortable compression molded midsoles. Both airy lightweight sandals and great hikers, especially when you want to wade up the middle of a stream. Removable footbed. Completely machine washable.

We like the way the stretch-cord laces turn these into slip-ons, with a drawcord to tighten it up. Sure the Macs were a bit sandy at the end of day, but a quick hosing took care of that.

Lining: AEGIS microbe shield treated hydrophobic mesh. Upper: Polyester webbing. Non-marking rubber outsole keeps the black off the linoleum, with razor siping, for extra grip in the wet.

$95

Filed Under: Clothing Tagged With: Keen, water shoes

January 15, 2014 By Chas Bruce

REI Sahara Cadet Cape Hat

REI Sahara Cadet Cape Hat
REI Sahara Cadet Cape Hat

It’s been a dry summer and the Colorado’s been running low. Although we just noticed an uptick and saw the indicator rock was almost submerged. Time to break out the rubber raft and head for a river run down the Daily! The challenge was not just the hot sun, but the gusting winds. I had to choose my headgear carefully.

Soldiers from a movie still wearing Sahara Cadet Cape Hats
REI Sahara Cadet Cape Hat
Hat with neck protection down

Of course, the Beau Geste look is always a fashion favorite among river rats, as well as Alan Ladd and the Foreign Legion. The rear mounted sun cape has always been a functional favorite for me. It fully protects the neck and ears, and is less likely to spin off in a gust.

REI has designed their Sahara Cadet with a flat top and short 2 3/4″ brim. With the Sun Cape draped to your shoulders, it’s all you need to comfortably shade you from high elevation rays. The Cadet is constructed of soft, breathable nylon fabric with a UPF 50+ rating. It’s got a handy elastic cord that cinches this lid on your head, which lies just below a large cooling vent around the back and sides. For those forays into civilization, you can roll up the cape and button it underneath the band. The foam-stiffened brim will keep the hat afloat in water

Final verdict: my river mates had big floppy-brimmed headgear with chin straps that flapped in the wind like the Flying Nun’s cornet. My comfortably cinched hat stayed on like it was glued. Comes in Wombat or White. One size for all.

$26.50

Filed Under: Clothing Tagged With: hats, REI

January 10, 2014 By Chas Bruce

Outdoor Research Stamina Gator

Outdoor Research Stamina Gaitor
Outdoor Research Stamina Gator

As much as I love hiking in shorts, I’ve never liked the gross amounts of trail debris on my socks and in my shoes. Everything from grass seeds to thorns, dirt to rocks seem to find my socks and then the inside of my hiking boots. The most persistent seem to be springtime grass seeds looking for a new home.

This spring I saw Gaitors on a Trail Runner and I thought I’d give it a try. The OR Stamina Gaitors are made of lightweight breathable fabric that are comfortable in summer weather. So what if you’ve got a Spats on the Trail look or passerby wonder where the snow is, they really do a job of keeping the scree and seeds out of your shoes.

They are light and stretchy enough you forget they are on once you get going. The Gaitors slip on easily and attach with hooks at the laces and hook and loop patches at the heel, and snugly cinch at the top, just a couple inches above your ankles. Comes winter we’ll try them in the rain and slush. Silicon panels on the top will help keep it all dry.

$35

Filed Under: Clothing Tagged With: boots, Outdoor Research

January 2, 2014 By Chas Bruce

Julbo Vermont Classic Mountain Sunglasses/Retro Shades

Julbo Vermont Classic Mountain Sunglasses
Julbo Vermont Classic Mountain Sunglasses

These large round-lensed shades bring back the old days of backcountry adventure. Who cares that the leather shields limit side vision. They’ve got the look.

Julbo celebrates it’s 125th Anniversary by bringing back their classic Vermont mountaineering sunglasses. These specs use Julbo’s traditional black mountaineering frame with round lenses, a leather nose piece and leather side shields.Vintage details include rubber covered, flexible wire earpieces, riveted leather side shields, snap nose leather and top mounted securing screws. The leather surrounds actually do an excellent job of fighting ice glare. And the perfect accessory to go with your wool sweater, canvas jacket and wooly knee socks.

In 1888 Jules Baud, produced the first protective eyewear for French Alpinists. He founded Julbo and was soon making glasses and goggles for skiers as well. Julbo mountaineering glasses became the most sought after eye protection for glare ice. In 1950 Julbo was introduced to the US via Vermont’s Climb High Company. Originally these were known as the Round Glacier model, but in honor of the Vermont connection they have been re-named the Vermont Classic. Unfortunately, dropped from production in the 1990s, constant demand and requests has motivated Julbo to reintroduce these retro-style mountaineering sunglasses.

If you really want to pull out the stops, get the  anniversary Mythic Vermont model sunglasses, featuring Julbo’s 125th-anniversary emblem and are made with mineral glass, not polycarbonate lenses. Each Julbo retailer will only have 25 pairs to sell. Available this fall for $250.

$120

Filed Under: Clothing Tagged With: Julbo, sunglasses

May 23, 2013 By Chas Bruce

Zemgear Terra Shoe

Zemgear Terra Shoe
Zemgear Terra Shoe

The Zemgear Terra features a Split Toe design that isolates the big toe from the rest of the toes, something you would have found in traditional Ninja shoes or Tabi boots from Japan.

Isolating the big toe enhances the natural grip of the big toe. I’ve never been totally comfortable with 5-toed shoes in the way they separate my smaller toes after years of being crunched together, something I suppose I could get used to. But after trying this shoe I question whether five separate toes is necessary.

The Terra felt comfortable from the start, and I could immediately feel the lightness and agility of the minimalist, almost barefoot affect. The Terra offers a minimalist 4-way stretch fabric uppers to provide a sock-like fit and comfort, and a rolled heel and toe bumpers to protect your heel and toes. We tried this on the river, and it was a most comfortable companion in the boat and on the rocky shore.

Outsoles are made from recycled rubber. The traction pods and water dispersion channels made clambering on slippery rocks a joy. Urethane bands crisscross the instep to tie it all together with reflective color.

$70

Filed Under: Clothing Tagged With: running shoes, ZEMgear

July 12, 2012 By Chas Bruce

Filson Tin Cloth Vest 1897 Collection

Filson Tin Cloth Vest
Filson Tin Cloth Vest

The 1897 Special Edition Vest unites the historic, Filson Mackinaw Vest design with legendary Filson Tin Cloth. This tough, heavyweight, water-resistant oiled cotton, with roots in the company’s beginnings, was originally made for “…prospectors, miners, hunters, surveyors… and all who are exposed to the elements and who live and work outdoors.”

3 slot pockets hold pens, tools, or mini flashlights. Two hand warmer pockets. 5 button closure front. Made in USA of British cotton. Wipe or brush clean only. Gains character with use.

$98

Filed Under: Clothing Tagged With: Filson, vests

July 11, 2012 By Chas Bruce

Arborwear Tree Climber Pants

Arborwear Tree Climbing Pants
Arborwear Tree Climber

Arborwear Tree Climber Pants: These are the britches that made Arborwear famous. 12.5 oz. pre-shrunk, washed Canvas Originals feel broken in right from the get go. Rugged Gusset™ crotch, industrial stitching and double knees allow for maximum freedom of movement, comfort and durability. Custom semi-tapered cuffs won’t get hung up when you are doing your thing. So go climb something. Something tall and sharp. And possibly maple-flavored.

$59

Filed Under: Clothing Tagged With: Arborwear, pants

July 11, 2012 By Chas Bruce

Rising Sun Canvas Vest

Rising Sun Canvas Vest
Rising Sun Canvas Vest

Rising Sun Canvas Vests are tailor made in Los Angeles. By appointment only. They make mostly jeans and related vests, coats and other workwear.

As their philosophy statement says… “At Rising Sun we think of ourselves as actually working in the early 1900’s with a 21st century state of mind. Our team of tailors are meticulous when it comes to pattern making and sewing techniques. Drawing inspiration from master tailors of a bygone era, when good design, superior quality, and pride in your work actually mattered. Working largely on turn of the century machines, we approach every garment with this in mind. At Rising Sun we are craftsmen not manufacturers. Striving to create timeless, quality, lasting garments while utilizing all the best that modern technology and techniques have to offer. For us the workmanship is crucial. It’s our belief that the sum of all the small details make a world of difference. We believe in crafting garments that are certain to last just like in the old days when clothes were tools that helped people provide a living and build a nation. When Made in America stood for something. When it meant your friends and neighbors had good jobs, big dreams, and they could provide a good American life for themselves and their families. When made in America wasn’t just a label on a garment. It is this thinking, philosophy, and conviction that sets Rising Sun apart.…”

Filed Under: Clothing Tagged With: The Rising Mfg. Co., vests

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